The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of
Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk
Glacier, setting up Base Camp at 5,180 m on a gravel
plain just below the glacier. To reach Camp II, climbers
ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up
to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m. Camp III (ABC
- Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at
6,500 m. To reach Camp IV on the north col, climbers
ascend the glacier to the foot of the col where fixed
ropes are used to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000
ft). From the North Col, climbers ascend the rocky north
ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m. The route
crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base
of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230
m. From Camp VI, climbers will make their final summit
push. Climbers face a treacherous traverse from the base
of the First Step, to the crux of the climb, the Second
Step. Once above the Second Step the
inconsequential Third Step is clambered over. Once above
these steps, the summit pyramid is climbed by means of a
snow slope of 50 degrees, to the final summit ridge. |